A Step By Step Guide for Changing Your Lawn Mower’s Oil

Last week, I talked about how to tune up your lawn mower and get it ready for spring.  Whether you’ve got a walk behind lawn mower, lawn tractor, or a zero turn mower, changing your oil on a regular basis is, hands down, the best thing you can do to extend your engine life and keep your mower running great.  If you’ve never changed the oil in your lawn mower, don’t worry!  Changing your lawn mower’s oil is incredibly easy and can be done in less than 10 minutes!  Here is a step by step guide on how to change your lawn mower’s oil.

Getting Started

Changing your oil regularly is the best thing you can do to keep it running smoothly year after year.  But how often is “regularly?”  In order to maximize your engine life and lawn mower performance, it’s usually best to change your oil every 50 hours, or once per year — whichever comes first.  Just to be safe, changing your oil at the beginning of every mowing season is a good habit to get into!

Before you get started changing your oil, there are a few things that you will need:

• Oil Filter
• Motor Oil
• Funnel
• Oil Drain Pan
• Socket Wrench

NOTE:  Be sure to disconnect the spark plug cable before working on your mower!  This will make sure that the mower doesn’t accidentally engage while you’re working on it.

Remove the Old Oil

The first step in changing your lawn mower’s oil is to drain the old oil.

1. Put an oil-safe container underneath your lawn mower.
2. Locate the drain plug if your mower is equipped with one. (Most walk behind lawn mowers don’t come with a drain plug — you’ll have to tilt the mower back so oil can drain out the fill tube.)
3. Using a socket wrench, turn the drain plug counter-clockwise until oil comes out.
4. After oil is completely drained, recycle the oil properly at your local oil recycling facility.  Be sure not to dump any oil down the drain or on the ground.

Replace Oil Filter

If you have a riding lawn mower or zero turn mower, chances are, your mower is equipped with an oil filter.  Changing the oil filter at least once a year is recommended.  Here is how to change your oil filter:

1. Locate your Oil Filter (If your mower is equipped with one.)
2. Twist oil filter counter-clockwise to remove from oil filter adapter.
3. Clean the seal of the oil filter, and apply new engine oil to lubricate seal if needed.
4. Screw the new oil filter into the adapter.

Refill Engine Oil

The last step in changing your oil is refilling the new engine oil.

1. Locate the oil fill tube.
2. Pour the recommended amount of oil down the fill tube. (Most walk behind lawn mowers hold either 18 or 20 ounces of motor oil — consult your manual.)
3. If your lawn mower has a dip stick, wipe it clean before inserting it into your oil fill tube.  Remove the dip stick and check the oil level to see if you have the proper amount of oil.

With regular oil changes and proper maintenance and service, your lawn mower should run smoothly year after year!

Which Grass is Best for your Lawn?

Last week, I talked about how overseeding your lawn can help keep your lawn thick, full and green.  Whether you’re planting grass seed for the first time or overseeding, choosing the right grass is an important part of lawn care.  When it comes to proper grass growth and lawncare, choosing the right grass is key.  But there are so many grass types out there, how am I supposed to know which grass is best for my lawn?  If you’re having trouble deciding which grass to use, here is a guide to help you narrow it down.

Climate Zones

The most important aspect of choosing the right grass is your climate zone.  The climate zone in which you live has a direct impact on how well certain grass types.  Some grasses are recommended for certain climates, while other grasses flourish in other climates.  In order to choose the right grass, it helps to split the country into three different geographical regions.  Cool season, transitional and warm season zones.  Look at the map to figure out which zone you lie in.

Cool Season Grasses:

If you happen to live in a cool season zone, there are a few grasses that are recommended specifically for your area.  These grasses have been found to yield the best growth in Northern areas:

Kentucky Bluegrass: 

Pros:  Kentucky Bluegrass is one of the more popular grass types found in cool season zones.  Kentucky Bluegrass has a deep green color and a very desirable texture.  It is typically able to withstand extreme temperatures which makes it a solid choice for areas with extremely hot summers and cold winters.  Kentucky bluegrass is a low maintenance grass with resilient properties. It’s known as a “creeping grass,” which means it can usually repair itself without having to reseed.

Cons: Really, the only problem with Kentucky Bluegrass is that it has a tendency to lie dormant during hot seasons, which turns it an unhealthy, brown shade.  It’s also usually pretty weak in extremely wet and shady areas.

Conclusion:  When using bluegrass in your lawn, the germination process might take up to three weeks.  This means it’s usually best to use a blend of one or two other grasses.  Ryegrass and fescue both fill in quickly.  If you are using Kentucky Bluegrass in your lawn, blend it with a mixture of Fine Fescue. (Especially if you are planting seed in a shady or wet area.  The best time to plant Kentucky Bluegrass is late summer to early fall, when the temperature falls to 75 Degrees.

Perennial Ryegrass:

Pros: Perennial Ryegrass is another great choice for cool season zones.  It’s a very diverse grass, allowing it to flourish in a wide variety of soils.  It can also handle heavy foot traffic.  Perennial Ryegrass is a fine textured, bright green grass.  Compared to Kentucky Bluegrass, the germination process of ryegrass is much shorter, at only about a week.  Perennial Ryegrass is especially popular in coastal regions with mild winters and cool summers.

Cons: Perennial Ryegrass usually has a low tolerance for cold weather and droughts.  It’s also a pretty high maintenance grass to take care of.

Conclusion:  Because of it’s inability to thrive in extemely cold weather, it’s best to use Perennial Ryegrass as a blend of one or two more grasses.  It’s a very quick growing grass, which allows it to protect other slower growing grasses in your mixture.  Just keep the blend of ryegrass under 20% , especially if you live in an area that is prone to cold winters and droughts.

Fine Fescue:

Pros:  Fine Fescue is a great looking, dark green bunchgrass.  Most fescues grow very well in shady areas and soils with low acidic levels.  Fine fescues are also a pretty low maintenance grass — they don’t require much fertilizer or close care.  Fine Fescue is great at handling droughts and shady regions.

Cons: Fine Fescue is not a great grass choice for areas with hot climates or heavy foot traffic.

Conclusion:  Fine Fescue is best to use in a blend of Ryegrass or Bluegrass.  The best time to plant Fescue is late summer to early fall, when the temperature is between 60-75 degrees.

Warm Season and Transitional Zone Grasses

As opposed to cool season grasses, transitional and warm season grasses call for a different type of grass.  When deciding on a grass for warm season or transitional zones, the following grasses have been found to grow the best in your area.  Try using one of the following, or even use a blend of each.

Zoysia:

Pros:  Zoysia is known for being a durable and versatile grass.  It’s got a deep root system that allows it to withstand heat, drought and a variety of soil conditions.  The deeper root system also allows for optimum resiliency to pests and diseases.  Zoysia grows in very thick and lush, with a medium texture.

Cons:  Zoysia tends to turn a brownish color in the fall.  It’s also pretty high maintenance because it’s difficult to mow and prone to thatch.

Conclusion:  When it comes to southern climates and transitional zones, zoysia is a great grass choice.  However, it has a long germination period.  It could possibly take zoysia up to two years to come in thick and full, but once it does, weeds and diseases can rarely penetrate it.  Use zoysia in a blend of other grasses such as bermuda, and be sure to keep it properly dethatched.  At least once per year, run a dethatcher over zoysia grass in order to keep it healthy.

Bermuda Grass:

Pros: Bermuda Grass is the most common type of grass used in souther, warm season climate zones.  Similar to Zoysia, Bermuda Grass has a deep root system that allows it to handle extreme conditions like excess heat and sun exposure.  Bermuda Grass grows in much quicker than zoysia grass, which makes it a great choice for quickly filling in damaged areas.

Cons:  On the other hand, bermuda grass is also prone to losing its color after periods of frost.  It also forms a thick layer of thatch, and doesn’t grow very well in shady areas.

Conclusion:  Because Bermuda grass tends to turn brown after experiencing frost, it’s usually a good idea to overseed Bermuda grass in the fall or early winter.  The best time to plant Bermuda grass is late spring to early summer, when grass growth is at it’s maximum.

Whichever grass you decide on, keeping your lawn properly aerated and dethatched is just as important as choosing the right grass.  With a little care, complete Turf Renovation is only a few steps away.

The Difference between Lawn Tractors and Garden Tractors

• Garden tractors weigh more, which means they are better at handling hilly terrain.
• Lawn tractors have smaller drive wheels for better maneuverability.
• Garden tractors are usually larger, sturdier and heavier than lawn tractors.

•  Garden Tractors are made to handle a wide variety of attachments.
• Garden Tractors have a more heavy-duty build, for a more versatile machine.

John Deere X300 Lawn Tractor	John Deere X700 Garden Tractor

Power:

Another one of the biggest difference between a lawn tractor and a garden tractor isn’t as obvious.  It’s actually found under the hood.  Because garden tractors are meant to be a more versatile tractor, they require more horsepower.  On the other hand, lawn tractors are primarily used for mowing, which requires much less horsepower.

One of the most important differences between lawn tractors and garden tractors is that garden tractors typically come with a locking differential.  Differential locks help the user to provide traction if you’re ever operating in less than ideal terrain.  Locking differentials can certainly help get you out of messy situations.  When you activate the differential lock, the rear drive wheel’s rotational speed is restricted so that both wheels are turning at the same speed.  When both wheels are turning in unison this allows the wheels to maintain even ground contact, giving you more traction.

• Lawn tractors typically have less horsepower (15-25 HP), while garden tractors usually have higher horsepower (20-30 HP).
• Most garden tractors come equipped with locking differentials, which gives you better traction.

Cost:

As with any big purchase, when deciding between a lawn tractor or a garden tractor, cost is certainly a factor.  Keep in mind that because garden tractors are more versatile and heavy duty, garden tractors will typically cost more than lawn tractors.  But don’t forget, there’s always the option to buy used lawn and garden tractors.  That will surely be an inexpensive way to get the job done.

Lawn Tractor or Garden Tractor?

If you’re still not sure which tractor would be the best fit for you and your needs, here are a few key points to consider:

Power: Garden tractors a powerful machines, built to handle anything you throw at it.  This means garden tractors will typically have higher horsepower and a differential lock for handling tough terrain.

Cost: Because of their heavy-duty construction and more powerful engines and transmissions, garden tractors usually cost more than lawn tractors.

Functionality: If your primary need is mowing, then a lawn tractor will get the job done quickly, efficiently, and affordably.  However, if you’re going to be using your tractor for more jobs besides mowing, then you will need the extra power and versatility that garden tractors have to offer.

How Dethatching Can Help you Achieve Green, Golf Course Quality Grass

I’m sure, at some point or another, most of us have envisioned having the perfect yard.  The best looking lawn on the block.  The talk of the town — lush, green and beautiful.  But if your yard is looking brown, dry, and dead, you aren’t alone.  Last week, I talked about how you can achieve the beautiful yard of your dreams in four easy steps.

1. Dethatching
2. Vacuuming
3. Aerating
4. Overseeding

This week, I’ll walk you through the first step — dethatching your yard.  I’ll also talk about the importance of dethatching and how properly dethatching can help your grass become on par with golf course grass.  (Pun absolutely intended.)

What is Thatch?

Thatch is that organic layer of dead grass, roots, and stems that can build up between the soil surface and layer of vegetation in your turf.  Thatch is created when your turf produces debris faster than it can be broken down.  Thatch tends to build up after time, which prevents water, oxygen, and essential nutrients from reaching your soil.

When you dethatch your yard, you are essentially combing your yard with a rake, removing that unhealthy layer of thatch.  When it comes to smaller yards, this can be done with simply a rake.  But if your yard is bigger than half an acre to an acre, a dethatcher will help you to save lots of time and energy.  Popular types of dethatchers include walk-behind dethatchers  and pull-behind dethatchers (to pull behind a riding mower.)

Why should I dethatch my yard?

It kind of makes sense that a thin layer of thatch is actually healthy for a lawn — it acts as a sponge to help hold in moisture, and also helps to protect the grass from excess sun.  But when thatch buildup becomes greater than .5″, thatch can hold in nutrients and water, keeping them from reaching the soil.  Because of this, too much thatch buildup stifles growth, turns your grass an unhealthy brown shade, and literally chokes your lawn.

If thatch continues to grow too thick, it can also block sunlight from reaching lower grass blades, and prevent water from soaking into the root system.  If water can’t reach the root system, it will continue to hold moisture in the grass blades, which causes bacteria and disease.

How do I dethatch my yard?

In order to tell if your yard needs to be dethatched, first dig up a small plug of turf.  Using a spade, cut a small section of turn (roughly 3″ deep) and inspect the layer of thatch – (the layer right between the soil and grass blades.)  If the layer of thatch exceeds 3/4″, that means your yard could greatly benefit from being dethatched.

The first step in dethatching your yard is mowing.  Mow your yard about half of the normal height – (but no less than an inch.)  Once your yard is freshly cut, then it’s time to dethatch.  Using a rake (for smaller yards) or a dethatcher, go over your yard, pulling out the thatch layer.  Dethatching creates a layer of dead grass on top of your lawn, which means that removing the thatch with a rake or lawn vacuum is absolutely necessary.  If you don’t vacuum after dethatching, then it’s only a matter of time before the dead thatch becomes matted down in the soil again.

Often times, dethatching can create bare spots in your yard.  Because of this, it’s a pretty good idea to overseed after dethatching — especially in problem areas.

When Should I Dethatch?

Finding the best time to dethatch really depends on climate region and grass type.  When maintaining cool-season grasses, the best time to dethatch is late summer or early fall.  But when it comes to warm season grasses, dethatching yields the best results when done in late spring or early summer.  Really, the best time to dethatch varies by region.  If you’re not sure, just keep in mind that the best time to dethatch would be whenever your grass is growing most rapidly.